How to meet a true Geisha in Kyoto?
Contents
- What will you learn from this post?
- Who are the geisha, geiko and maiko?
- How can you respectfully meet a true geisha as a tourist?
- What to read and watch to learn about geisha?
What will you learn from this post?
- Who are the geisha?
- What is the difference between the terms maiko, geiko and geisha and how can you tell them apart
- How can you meet a true geisha respectfully as a tourist in Kyoto including various options for different budgets, events and times of the year
- What to read and watch if you would like to learn about the lives of true geisha
Who are the geisha, geiko and maiko?
Geisha, are iconic figures of Japanese culture and hold a deeply rooted history dating back centuries. Geisha are referred to as living art and it is a fantastic experience to meet a true geisha. Originating in the Edo period (1603-1868), geisha were entertainers, trained in various arts such as traditional dance, music and conversation to provide sophisticated entertainment for their clients. Geisha usually can play traditional Japanese instruments such as the shamisen and they learn complicated and enchanting dance choreographies. They wear a distinct make-up painting their face white and lips red. Contrary to popular misbeliefs they are not part of the sex industry. Moreover, critics often point out that the image of the geisha is distorted in the popular novel and movie ‘Memoirs of a geisha’.
In Kyoto, geisha are referred to as “Geiko,” with the term “Maiko” referring to their apprentice counterparts. The distinction between the two lies in their attire, hairstyle, and proficiency in traditional art. The Geiko has many years of practice behind them, so they are more proficient in performing arts compared to the Maiko. Maiko usually start training when they are 15 years old and spend years with developing their art skills before thy become a geiko. The Maiko are easily recognizable by their flashy, elaborate kimono, and flowery hairstyles, while the Geiko (Geisha) are dressed elegantly and exude a calm, mature vibe. In addition, the Maiko have red or embroidered kimono collars, while the Geiko have white kimono collars. In the picture above you can see that the lady on the right is probably a maiko as she has an embroidered collar and a heavily decorated wig.
How can you respectfully meet a true geisha as a tourist?
In recent years, there has been an unfortunate rise in incidents of tourists harassing geisha in the streets of Kyoto, jeopardizing their privacy and dignity. In 2024 the streets of the Gion, where most geisha work has been closed to tourists due to these incidents. Generally when you see a geisha on th street they are going somewhere, probably in hurry and it is not polite to block their way and take photos without their permission. In addition, there are services which specialise in dressing up tourists as geisha including the iconic white make-up, so it is not always obvious if you see a real geisha on the street or not.
In this post, I give you a guide on how to meet respectfully with a true geisha. There are plenty of events wher you can respectfully see and meet geisha, see the details below in the post. By attending these events you can contirbute to preserving this great artform of Japan. However, please respect the geishas’ personal space and follow the relevant ettiquette when meeting with them.
There are different ways to meet with a geisha in a respectful way. I gathered the main ones, reviewed and compared them in terms of price, length, type of interaction and time of availability.
#1 Attend a tea ceremony performed by a geisha
- Price: $100-$150 per person
- Length: Typically 1-2 hours
- Interaction: You can see the geisha perform from very close, potentially talk to them.
- Availability: All year round, but it is advised to book well in advance
What is a tea ceremony?
If you visit Kyoto attending a tea ceremony is a great way to experience traditional Japanese culture. Attending a tea ceremony performed by a geiko or a maiko is a unique experience, so make sure not to miss out on it. A tea ceremony is a ritual way of preparing and drinking tea together in a tea room with a tatami floor. It can be held in hotels, gardens, temples, or homes and there are various types of tea ceremonies with varying formality.
History of tea ceremony
Tea came to Japan from China around the 8th century and originally it was only accessible to buddhist clerics who used it as medicine. The earliest tea celebration occured in Japan in the 9th century when a buddhist monk named Eichu served tea to Emperor Saga. As time went by, the samurai class started drinking it and held gatherings to enjoy tea together. Tea ceremony (chanoyu) has developed from these tea parties of the Japanese elite.
But how did these lavish, fancy tea parties of the samurai turned into today’s simplistic tea ceremony? The father of the simplistic tea ceremony is Sen no Rikyu, who was the tea master of Oda Nobunaga, then Toyotomi Hideyoshi – two great historical figures of the Japanese Warring States Period (1467-1615). He was a follower of zen teachings, advocated for rustic simplicity and the use of minimalist bamboo tools. His influence was huge on the tea ceremony due to his close relationship with Toyotomi Hideyoshi. However, their relationship has turned sour and Sen no Rikyu held his last tea ceremony on the 21st April 1591 after which he had to commit ritual suicide (seppuku) ordered by Toyotomi Hideyoshi.
#2 Book a dinner with a geisha
Private dinner
- Price: $300-500 per person
- Length: Typically 3-4 hours
- Interaction: You can talk to the geisha, see them perform, play games with them. They are focused only on you.
- Availability: All year round, but it is advised to book well in advance
Traditionally the geisha entertained Japan’s influential elite in the past few hundred years. Even today they might attend at high prestige business dinners or government meetings. As they are part of these gatherings where sensitive and classified information is discussed, secrecy is part of the geisha’s services. Geisha entertain their guests at teahouses (ochaya) where they can sing, dance and play games together. These experiences have become more accessible these days and tourists can also experience dining with a geisha. You can book a private dinner and get entertained by these artists at a teahouse when you visit Japan.
Small Group dinner experience
- Price: $100-150 per person
- Length: Typically 2-3 hours
- Interaction: You can see the geisha perform from very close, potentially talk to them.
- Availability: All year round, but it is advised to book well in advance
Booking a private dinner can be expensive, so you might want to go for a more affordable alternative. You can attend a cultural walking tour followed by a shorter dinner experience or afternoon tea with a geisha. Attending this type of event will still allow you to have conversation with a geisha and see a geisha perform.
#3 See a geisha dance performance in a theater
- Price: $25-45 per person
- Length: Typically 1 hour
- Interaction: You can see the geisha on the stage and usually you have a good visibility as these theaters are not too big. However, you can’t talk to them or go close. In comparison with the more private experiences where you see 1 or 2 geisha, here you will see many of them.
- Availability: Only in set time periods depending on the performance, see below.
Miyako Odori
- When? Miyako Odori is an annual series of geisha performances held from early to late April since 1872.
- Where? Gion Kaburenjo Theatre.
- You can buy tickets on the day at the door or book online at the official website a few months in advance.
Kamogawa Odori
- When? Kamogawa Odori is an annual series of geisha performances held from early to late May since 1872.
- Where? Pontocho Kaburenjo Theater
- You can buy tickets online at the official website usually from 1st April.
Gion Odori
- When? Kamogawa Odori is an annual series of geisha performances held early to November since 1894.
- Where? Gion Kaikan
- You can buy tickets online at the official website usually from 1st August.
#4 Attend a festival where geisha are present
- Price: Free – $20 per person
- Length: Day or half-day long
- Interaction: You will see geisha perform from further away and there is no guarantee that you will see them from close.
- Availability: Depends on the festival, see below.
Heian Jingu Reisai Festival (16th April)
- When? 16th April annually
- Where? Heian Shrine
- Entry: Free
Heian Shrine was built in 1895 to commemorate 1,100th anniversary of the capital being moved to Kyoto. The shrine is dedicated to the legendary Japanese Emperor Kanmu and the Heian Jingu Reisai annual festival is dedicated to celebrating his ascension to the throne in 781. Geiko and Maiko from four different geisha districts hold performances during the day. This is a very popular festival and if you would like to see the performance from a good spot arrive early in the morning before 8 AM. Check the official website for more information.
Kankame Inari Yomiya Festival (May)
- When? in May annually
- Where? Kankame Inari Jinja Shrine
- Entry: Free
Kankame Inari Yomiya festival is held at a small shrine tucked away from tourist masses. However, usually there are quite a few geishas are present and you might get the chane to participate in games with them on top of seeing them perform. Check out the official website for more information ahead of the festival.
Baikasai Plum Blossom Festival (Late February)
- When? in late February annually
- Where? Kitano Tenmangu Shrine
- Entry: from 1,200 yen
The Baikasai Annual Plum Blossom Festival is held in Kitano Tenmangu Shrine festival every year when the plum trees are blooming usually in late February. Geisha are invited to hold a tea ceremony outside in the beutiful plum garden of the Shrine. This festival started in 1952 to commemorate Toyotomi Hideyoshi holding the Kitano Grand Tea Ceremony in this Shrine. Check out the official website for more information ahead of the festival.
Heian Setsubun (3rd February)
- When? 3rd February annually
- Where? Heian Shrine
- Entry: Free
The Setsubun held at the Heian Shrine is a festival to chase away evil spritis and celebrate the coming spring. Priests perform ritual cleansing on people dressed as demons. The priests and geisha are throwing beans at the demons to chase them away. Furthermore, there is a fire ceremony held at the and of the festivalCheck out the official website for more information ahead of the festival.
What to read and watch to learn about geisha?
- Watch ‘The Makanai: Cooking for the Maiko house‘ on Netflix. This show is based on a manga and follows two young girls who move to Kyoto to become maiko. It is a heart-warming drama that introduces the daily lives of maiko and geiko in Kyoto.
- Read ‘Geisha of Gion: The True Story of Japan’s Foremost Geisha’ by Mineko Iwasaki. It is an autobiography of a celebrated geisha, Mineko, who had a career as a geisha in the ’70-80s. It is a book that gives you a lot of insight into the complex world of geisha in Kyoto.
